Cairngorm 4000-ers

We crossed the Laoigh bridge which was surrounded by some lovely young trees and headed West around the base of Cairn a’ Mhaim towards Corrour bothy. We knew the bothy was closed due to Covid rules and not knowing the area we were unsure of how much space would be available to pitch our tents so we became a little too task focussed and it was heads down and march. After a while we realised what we were doing and stopped. We had a break, a bite to eat and a blether. We took time to enjoy where we were and what we were doing. It was amazing how easily we got sucked into the mindest of having to get to a place at a certain time which totally goes against the whole idea of being out in the mountains.

We needn’t have worried. The Cairngorm plateau is a big place and when we arrived at the Corrour bothy there was plenty of space (like miles of space. Seriously… What were we thinking? Why did we get so caught up in having to be at a specific place at a certain time when we were in the middle of one of Scotlands wildest, most remote locations? Even several years later and many discussions later, we still don’t know. The human mind is a curious beast) we pitched our tents on the other side of the river away from the bothy.

Sean had his Vango Banshee 200 and I had my Terra Nova Laser Competition 1 which I adore. It’s super light-weight which on a weekend like this is a huge bonus but the downside is that it is small. I keep on wondering if I should have gone for the 2 person, but every time I use it I love it. It’s my personal space. Somewhere to rest, sleep and eat. Privacy. Seclusion. Space. Solitude… And that tingling sense of excitement that this is your space. Like an excited child making a den and crawling in to it for the first time.

After the tent is up, the sleeping mat & bag is down, it’s time for a brew. I use an MSR Pocket Rocket and the Alpkit 450 titanium mug. The gas & stove all fit inside the mug and it’s super compact and all you need for a weekend like this. Ok the Pocket Rocket is like a jet afterburner and I wouldn’t want to try and simmer some food over it but if you want to quickly boil some water. Job done.

My luxury camping item is a Sea to Summit folding cup so I can have a brew while cooking my dinner. Otherwise if you’re just using the Alpkit mug, you have to finish your tea before you can cook and the next cup of tea tastes like your dinner. Like I say, my luxury item.

After dinner and a couple of trips to the river to hydrate (drink more water) it was time to rest our sleepy heads next to that babbling brook of a stream that we camped next to. Unfortunately, what was a quiet stream when you’re cooking and chatting is actually a very noisy river when you’re trying to sleep, you’ve got cramp in your legs and your tent is the size of a matchbox (did I tell you how much I love my Laser Competition 1?) and stretching is near impossible.

I think I slept. Not really sure but the sunrise was a golden orange across the tops and after a quick breakfast, more excited chatter, we packed up and headed up Coire Odhar which from where we camped looked really steep but it wasn’t. Turning left we walked up The Devil’s Point before quickly retracing our steps and heading North up Stob Coire an-t-Saighdeir, Cairn Toul, Sgor an Lochain Uaine, round the stunning Garbh Choire Mor over to Carn na Criche.

Here we stopped to drink from the source of the Dee (how cool is that) before heading for the summit of Braeriach before the final, soul destroying, sore, never ending, descent down steps, back down to the floor of Lairig Ghru before heading immediately up the other side of the pass and through the Chalamain Gap. This was hard work.

We were tired and were nearing the end of two days of walking. Some of these boulders are the size of cars and it took longer than we expected to pick our way through. I slipped a couple of times grazing my arms but we giggled a lot and made it through. From there it was a long yomp back to the Sugar Bowl car park and then a trudge up the road back to the cars.

By now it was dark but like good boy scouts we had our head torches. Halfway up the road, a couple we had met earlier were driving down and offered us a lift up to our cars. It was so tempting as at this point, all we were doing was walking along a road which isn’t anyone’s idea of a fun day out in the hills but it didn’t feel right and after a bit of deliberation, we thanked them and carried on. It was totally the right decision. We would have kicked ourselves if we had taken a lift.

Stifly climbing into my car I sat there totally puggled. I was broken, physically and mentally. It had been a tough two days but they were epic. We couldn’t have asked for better weather, that really was Scotland at its finest. Wall to wall sunshine, stunning views of mountains as far as the eye can see.

Cairngorms, you are an amazing place. Thank you.