Grey Mare’s Tail and White Coomb
The White Coomb loop around Loch Skeen & Grey Mare’s Tail is a classic Scottish Borders route and according to Cameron McNeish, his favourite hill walking route in the Borders and who are we to argue!
The route starts at the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall car park. The Grey Mare’s Tail is one of Scotland’s finest waterfalls at 60m. The area is owned by The National Trust for Scotland and there is a charge of a few quid but it’s worth it. There’s also a collection for Moffat Mountain Rescue Team who like all Mountain Rescue teams, are a charity and rely on donations. And they are quite active in this area. Please support them if you can.
It can and does get busy here so either come early or pick a week day. Most people are here to walk up past Grey Mare’s Tail and on to Loch Skeen before turning back. We often see cars parked on either side of the road along the verge which isn’t cool. We just wish people could have the foresight to plan an alternative walk if somewhere is mobbed. The Pentland Hills just outside Edinburgh is a good example of people just not having any imagination and refusing to go somewhere else, often blocking roads to farmers and emergency vehicles.
The main path begins on the west side of the burn in what we would call the main car park. Keep right on the path and you’ll cross a footbridge. From there path climbs steeply up the right hand side and you may want to shed some layers or stop to take loads of photographs. We did both.
The view of the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall and down the Glacial U-shaped valley gets better and better with every step. Do take time to stop and take it all in as it is truly fantastic (and steep) and features in Marmion, a poem by Sir Walter Scott, about how Lord Marmion, a favourite of Henry VIII of England, lusts for Clara de Clare, a rich woman.
Just on the edge, straining his ken
To view the bottom of the den,
Where, deep deep down, and far within,
Toils with the rocks the roaring linn;
Then, issuing forth one foamy wave,
And wheeling round the giant’s grave,
White as the snowy charger’s tail
Drives down the pass of Moffatdale.
As the contour lines get wider and the gradient eases, you follow the Tail Burn past a couple of small waterfalls and then through glacial moraine, heading towards Loch Skeen.
Soon Loch Skeen, the highest major hill loch in Southern Scotland is before you. White Coomb, your final destination back over your left shoulder, the towering crags of Lochcraig Head rising steeper from the loch in front and the rocky ridge of Mid Craig on your left. Here the path abruptly stops and it’s a bit of a bog fest along the East side of Loch Skeen until you finally reach the welcome slopes of Lochcraig Head and dry ground.
Once on top of the ridge we did a quick out and back to tick off Lochcraig Head the first Donald at 801m before heading South West down and then straight back up Talla Nick to Firthybrig Head 766m. Here at the junction in the fences we headed off North West to tick off Molls Cleaugh Dod the second Donald at 785m as it just sounds fab. It was a quick out and back over prety flat and easy terrain.
Back at Firthybrig Head it was time for some food for me and the dog then onwards towards Donalds Cleuch Head 776m, then Firthhope Rig at 800m.
Now it’s time to head back towards the ridge line and the Cairn at White Coomb at 821m. It was a bit breezy here but warm. The dogs ears were flapping about in the wind but it wasn’t cold at all. From the summit it was now down Rough Craigs and they were rough on my knees. Didn’t enjoy the steps at all so progress was slow. We skirted Upper Tarnberry and then headed towards Tail Burn and somewhere to cross without getting very cold and wet (Any fool can be uncomfortable!) In the end we heaaded back up towards Grey Mare’s Tail for about 200m and found somewhere to cross just past the old Shieling.
From here we were back in the world of the casual day tripper and walking back along the path alongside the very popular Grey Mare’s Tail.
I always feel a slight disconnect when I’ve finished a long, isolated route in the hills and then am suddenly among loads of people. On one hand I feel a sense of safety, I’m near people and close to my home (my car/tent) but on the other hand, it’s a very odd feeling. Almost like going up to Edinburgh for the day and being among the buzz and the noise when you’ve been used to something far more sedate. I think I need to work on this. It’s not a weakness but I should be more comfortable with solitude and feel secure. I shouldn’t need other people for this.
Route Info
Hills Climbed
Lochcraig Head 801m (Donald)
Firthybrig Head 763m
Molls Cleuch Dod 785m (Donald)
Firthhope Rig 800m
White Coomb 821m (Corbett)
Stats
Distance: 15.06 km
Time: 5h 12min
Note:
The time taken is our time. We’re not fell runners wearing a tiny pair of shorts & carrying no kit, nor did we stop for hours and have a picnic.
Your time may be different. If you do follow this route and end up: hours late, in the pitch black, weeping. Tough.
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